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The enchiladas you’ll find in McAllen, Texas (frequently sauced with chili gravy), could vary from Monterrey’s (where they’re often filled with pollo guisado) in Mexico. But while the dish’s origins are Mexican, stemming back to the time of the Aztecs, the specifics of your enchiladas vary wildly depending on where you’re partaking. The formula is crushingly simple, with opportunities for endless malleability: Fried tortillas are dipped in salsa, possibly garnished with crema and cheese and chopped onions, or served as is, or demolished anywhere in between. It’s on the way! Everything (or at least the next 15 minutes) could very well turn out fine.

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Even the name alone - enchi ladas! - becomes a catalyst for anticipation: Comfort is in the vicinity. Whether topped with hills of Cotija cheese, or a silky salsa verde, or handfuls of herbs, the dish is a shorthand for deliciousness. Enchiladas are warm hugs, enveloped in tortillas and blanketed in sauce.

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